Integrity, sensitivity, brilliant communication skills, expert technical knowledge, a thirst for knowledge and, of course, a passion for wine. These are just a few of the key attributes that a sommelier needs to reach the top of their profession.
So when 36-year old Christopher Delalonde MS was crowned as the Champagne Piper-Heidsieck UK Sommelier of the Year 2010, he was understandably emotional to win what has become one of the toughest titles in the business. “Last year I came as a newcomer and finished second. This year I came here to win,” he said on receiving his award at the Westbury Hotel, London in April. “Because of that I put myself under more pressure. It has been six months of hard work but I’m delighted to have won, particularly given the high standard of this year’s competition.”
Earlier this year Christopher joined the personal sommelier service Sarment Wines, although his expertise had won the French-born sommelier a loyal following amongst his customers at two-Michelin starred restaurant The Square in London. He has also worked at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s and last year passed his Master Sommelier exam with the highest score overall.
Runner-up in the competition, sponsored by Champagne Piper-Heidsieck, was Yohann Jousselin, head sommelier at the Vineyard at Stockcross, Newbury, the second time he had been in the final three. Clement Robert, head sommelier at Summer Lodge Country House Hotel, Evershot, took third place.
This year’s UK Sommelier of the Year was an extremely tight contest, with all three finalists within just a few marks of each other. “While all three were extremely impressive, Christopher was a worthy winner of the title,” commented judge Victor Lanson, marketing controller, First Drinks, the UK agent for Champagnes Piper-Heidsieck & Charles Heidsieck. “His ability to stay calm under pressure, think on his feet and the depth of wine and service knowledge he displayed shone through.”
The competition, now in its 31st year, sets out to find the best sommelier or wine waiter in the UK based on wine knowledge, customer service skills and tasting ability. Previous winners include Laura Rhys from Hotel TerraVina in Hampshire, Gearoid Devaney, then of Tom Aikens, London, and Nicolas Clerc of the Milestone Hotel, London.
Christopher, Yohann and Clement won their places in the final having triumphed in the 15-strong semi-final. While the semi-final is held behind closed doors, the final is staged in front of an audience of industry guests. The three finalists complete a timed blind tasting, correct a series of mistakes on a wine list and take part in a restaurant role-playing scenario with difficult orders and demanding customers. The dramatic finale is a Champagne pour, where a magnum of Champagne Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut has to be emptied and evenly poured into 16 flutes without the sommelier returning to any of the glasses.
The competition is a true test of what makes a good sommelier. Yet, outside the hospitality industry, the role is little understood despite the fact that a skilled sommelier can be a restaurant’s biggest asset. It’s the sommelier who needs to understand a customer’s preference and guide them towards wines that suits their budget and complements the food they’ve ordered, presenting it appropriately and ensuring its quality.
It can take many years of dedicated study to become a top sommelier at this level. Not surprisingly the best are rarely out of work. If a restaurant loses its head sommelier it can be a major blow. Around 30% of turnover in a typical restaurant is drink-related. A good sommelier can help this figure rise to around 50% of turnover.
The head sommelier also controls the cellar – purchasing wines, trying new ones, dealing with suppliers, and ensuring good stock rotation and temperature control. Those at the top of their profession work long hours but find time to keep up with the news and gossip of the wine industry, visit vineyards and attend tastings. Some test their skills and further their knowledge with blind tastings and competitions.
The role of the head sommelier has certainly changed over the past 20 years. The days of the supercilious sommelier who intimidates his customers are, fortunately, long gone. Today’s sommelier needs a good sense of humour, fantastic people skills along with excellent product knowledge and the technical skills surrounding the presenting and serving of wine. He or she also needs to be able to put the customer at ease and make them feel comfortable.”
For Christopher the competition was the culmination of nine months of hard work to get to the semi-final and then the final. Last year’s winner, Laura Rhys, spent 20 hours a week for three months preparing for the competition and her mentor and boss at Hotel TerraVina, Gerard Basset MS, MW, the UK’s best known sommeliers, spent many months himself preparing for the recent World Championship in Chile this April, which he won on his sixth attempt.
What makes sommeliers want to compete at this level is their passion for the business and a desire to be the top of their trade. Winning a competition is also good for their careers – it gets them noticed. For Gerard Basset it’s the dream of winning the ultimate accolade. “If you are passionate about it and have a desire to win then you make the sacrifices. For me, winning the World Championship was about completing something – I wouldn’t have felt complete without it as I have won other titles but not that. As I have been so close in the past, I knew it was within my grasp.”
Nick Scade, chairman, Academy of Food and Wine Service
